By Anne DesBrisay , The Ottawa Citizen
September 9, 2009 

I received a dear letter about this place a few months ago, which I filed and forgot about.

But two weeks ago, while shopping for school/college supplies with the boys, I was detoured around a disabled tractor-trailer and found myself in front of an orange sign with a name that sounded familiar. Ishina, fast food, it said.

It was 1:30 in the afternoon and we were lunchless. So we went in, we ate, and now were regulars, prepared to write dear letters about the place.

It helps to know its here, but once you know, youre in luck. Why? Because the north Indian food is very good, the meal is fast, the price is right and the service is gracious.

Though its no looker. Ishina is a clean, bright, utilitarian room in an industrial park behind Richmond Road in Bells Corners. The ceiling is warehouse rafters and beams, the floor is black and white linoleum. Long wispy curtains let in some light and manage to block the bleak view. The dozen or so tables are covered with red and yellow tablecloths and a jaunty canopy covers the buffet table.

But as soon as you enter Ishina, you smell all those great Cs cumin, cardamom, cinnamon, coriander, chilies. And you are greeted instantly by other great Cs, the family Chhatwal chef Manpreet (Baby) and Parminder (Nippi) and daughters Ishleen and Gina (hence, Ishina).

They know the regulars by name and the regulars know them. Hows your mother doing? Do you want the usual to drink?The regulars tend to walk over in groups guys, mostly, clad in casual gear who talk about things like RAM speed.The daily lunch buffet is set out in steam table trays, handsomely garnished and oft replenished.

We start with soup (daal one day, tomato and coriander another, both complex, both with some heat) and a soothing kachumber salad of tomatoes, cucumber, onion and coriander.

Steaming tandoori naan arrives to our table while were working our way through the line of stews. Beef korma, butter chicken, tandoori chicken, Jeera rice. There are always two meatless dishes usually a curry of mixed vegetables inspired by whatever fresh produce is available beans, zucchini, cauliflower, cabbage and always a spread based on paneer (fresh cheese). Homemade pickles are more sour than searing and yogurt raita with mint is all soothing.

This is Indian food that takes no shortcuts and it eats accordingly. It is all very good, the meats tender, the chicken juicy, the sauces full flavored, shot with ginger, garlic, onion and all those delicious spices that murmur through. If you want them to shout, you will notice the basket of fresh green chilies beside the bowl of raita.

Desserts include a platter of fresh fruit, and the ber-sweet gulab jamun fried balls of dough paddling in a rosewater-scented sugar syrup. And sometimes there is chocolate mousse, which looks suspiciously icky, but is in fact quite delicious.

It took us 23 minutes to lunch at Ishina. The gents beside me clocked in at seven. Back to their computers.

The price: The daily lunch buffet is $9.99, plus tax and tip.

Ishina may be short on style, but its long on flavour and thoughtfulness. That computes.

About Anne DesBrisay

Anne DesBrisay is the author of Capital Dining: A Guide for Dining out in Canadas Capital. Her website is capitaldining.ca.

By Michele Oberoi, The Ottawa Citizen
June 07, 2006 

It’s a long way from being a college sharpshooter and police officer in Delhi, India, to creating a fine biryani in Ottawa, but Manpreet (Baby) Chhatwal makes the switch effortless.

Named “best shooter in India” in 1975 by Indira Gandhi, then India’s prime minister, Mrs. Chhatwal now counts a former Canadian prime minister and current premier among her fans. And where once she carried a gun, “now I have a big knife in my hand,” she says, laughing.

“I never thought cooking would be my profession,” says the Indian-trained chef and co-owner of a takeout and catering company, Ishina Enterprises on Bexley Place.

Named after their two daughters, Ishleen and Gina, Ishina is a dream come true for Mrs. Chhatwal and her husband, Parminder (Nippi) Chhatwal. The couple, who gained their Canadian experience by managing a well-established Indian restaurant in Ottawa, had long wanted to run a family business.

“The progress has been really nice,” says Mr. Chhatwal, who handles the sales and marketing end of the business.
“People have really started to know us.

“They include former prime minister Paul Martin and Ontario premier Dalton McGuinty, both guests at Ottawa area fundraisers catered by Ishina.

“We like to keep ourselves involved,” says Mr. Chhatwal. As a member of a non-profit organization, The Circle of Canadians, Ishina has donated its services to several well-heeled charity events in the almost four years since opening its doors.

In addition to fundraisers, religious events and private parties, Ishina also caters a number of events for local companies including Claridge Homes, Phoenix Homes and Ottawa Honda. Their authentic Indian cuisine is also served at the Ottawa VIA Rail station, and in several high-tech company cafeterias.

But you don’t have to work in high-tech, attend a fundraiser, or throw your own party to enjoy food from Ishina. Along with catering, the company has an extensive line of takeout foods available at area stores including Rainbow Natural Foods, Herb and Spice Shop, Epicuria, India Food Centre, Sachis Cafeterias, the Produce Depot, and several other locations in Ottawa, Cornwall and Arnprior.

Packaged food “was a good way of introducing the cuisine,” says Mr. Chhatwal, describing a mouth-watering Northern Indian menu selection that includes butter chicken, lamb rogan josh, malai chicken, chicken tikka masala, malai kofta, baingan bharta, palak panir, and dal makhni.”They are prepared in authentic Indian style,” says Mrs. Chhatwal. “It’s seriously how people eat in that part of the country.”

Indian food is known for its rich sauces, marinated tandoori-cooked meats and variety of breads and the use of intricate spices, all aspects Mrs. Chhatwal incorporates in her dishes.

“Traditional is better to bring the authentic taste and flavours of the foods,” she says.

“The proof is in the tasting.” Once people eat (the food), they know the difference.

“Those unfamiliar with Indian food often feel shy about walking into a restaurant and ordering. Packaged food allows them to try smaller servings at a fraction of restaurant prices at home. It becomes easy for people to experiment,” says Mr. Chhatwal.

And, once people start experimenting, it isn’t long before the more adventuresome will want to try their hand at cooking the exotic foods themselves.

Mrs. Chhatwal suggests three popular recipes, suitable for beginners and more experienced cooks alike: a mild daal soup, fragrant chicken curry, and creamy palak panir.

Suitable as a first course, or a light meal on its own, daal soup is simple to make and delicious. Chicken curry, with its tender pieces of meat and thick, flavourful sauce, is sure to be a favourite, particularly when served with vibrantly coloured and spiced palak panir and basmati rice. The recipes appear here and on page E1. (Note: not available on website).

When giving advice to budding chefs, Mrs. Chhatwal starts with the importance of fresh ingredients. “The more you use fresh produce, the better the taste,” she says, adding that Ishina grinds its own spices and mixes its own garam masala, a combination of spices. Garam masala is one of several basic ingredients in Indian cooking. Others include onion, tomato, garlic, ginger, turmeric, fenugreek, green coriander, dried red chili peppers, salt and oil, most of which can be found at larger grocery stores.

For more information, contact Nippi Chhatwal at 613.721.1067.

About Anne DesBrisay

Anne DesBrisay is the author of Capital Dining: A Guide for Dining out in Canadas Capital. Her website is capitaldining.ca.